July 3rd. Day 82: Harpers Ferry to Crampton Gap Shelter -- 11 miles

It’s hot again the next day, but hey, we need to get to Maine. We leave Harpers Ferry by crossing the railroad bridge over the Potomac, and suddenly we’re in Maryland, our sixth state of the journey. There is a flat, sandy stretch of trail along the river where the miles pass quickly. Still, with the sun beating down, we soon take a break to strip down to our underwear and swim at a river bend where the current is gentle enough that we won’t get swept away like the families on inner tubes that occasionally drift past.

Then we keep moving, and the temperature continues to climb. When we reach a road crossing, two men in a utility truck stop us to ask a few questions. We explain what we’re doing on the trail. “But it’s so hot today,” one man says. “Can we get you guys something to drink?” In a cooler in the truck, they have small bottles of water, a couple of Gatorades, and a Diet Dr. Pepper, and despite our assurances that we’re being careful to stay hydrated, they insist we each take something. The ice-cold soda tastes impossibly sweet and far more refreshing than the lukewarm filtered river water in my bottles. We thank them profusely, and they wish us luck on the rest of our journey.

July 4th. Day 83: Crampton Gap Shelter to Annapolis Rocks -- 14.1 miles

Today it’s hot again, and I feel tired and slow. I’m suddenly not enjoying the trail like I have been up until now. I have no desire to quit, but I’m frustrated and confused about this abrupt change in my feelings about the experience. Maybe it’s the heat, or the routine, or the pressure to keep up when Etienne, Rob, and Ash all seem faster than me, but whatever it is, I find myself struggling to maintain a good attitude.

Thru-hikers are notoriously stricken with “the Virginia Blues,” when the novelty and excitement of the hike wear off, typically somewhere in Virginia. Maybe your tramily breaks up around Damascus when some are lost to the Trail Days vortex, or your friend gets injured, or you get bored. The Virginia Blues might end more thru-hike attempts than any other cause except perhaps the initial cold, wet shock of reality in Georgia. Throughout my weeks in the longest state on trail, I felt lucky to never fall victim to the Virginia blues. It helped that I got to take a few days off at home, frequently stay with family and friends instead of motels in town, and I had grown so close with Ash, Rob, and especially Etienne. Throughout Virginia, with a few brief exceptions, I loved being on the AT.

Well, I rationalize now, if my “honeymoon” period on the trail lasted nearly 1100 miles, and I’m only just now struck with the Maryland Blues, surely that’s a good sign, right?

Maryland’s a short state. I’ll be fine.

Day 84. July 5th: Annapolis Rocks to Falls Creek --17 miles

I listen to a podcast about Harriet Tubman the day we cross the Mason Dixon line. I’m overwhelmed at the thought of traversing this terrain 150 years ago as a fugitive and then volunteering to do so again and again to free others. I remember learning about Harriet in school, but always pictured her as an older woman who had a secret house where slaves would hide on their way to freedom. I never realized she was my age, and she led the expeditions, covering far more ground in these mountains than the 2200 miles that I will walk this year. I never realized she went on to be a spy for the Union Army and one of the first American women ever to lead soldiers into battle. It’s humbling, and I wish that schoolchildren could learn more about this remarkable freedom fighter and outdoorswoman.

I continue to struggle throughout the day, and I can’t make it to our target campsite for the night. I feel bitter that I’ve walked a thousand miles, but instead of feeling strong, my fitness seems to have plateaued somewhere around Mile 800, and now for some reason I’m getting weaker again. Etienne stays behind with me, and we camp a few miles short of Ash and Rob. We’ll catch them tomorrow, or at least by the next town stop in Boiling Springs, where Rob’s meeting his family.

Day 85. July 6th: Falls Creek to stealth campsite ~ Mile 1088 -- 21.6 miles

The next day is clear and warm, and after a steep climb up to Chimney Rocks, the miles pass quickly as the trail rolls gently downhill. We cover over 17 miles to Caledonia State Park by mid afternoon and take a spur trail to a huge swimming pool. It’s crowded with families. In the locker room, I change out of my usual hiking clothes into my underwear and tank top. Etienne and I wait in line with children for the enormous water slide, swim a few laps, and then eat ice cream cones from the concession stand while our skin starts to burn in the sun. My frustration and fatigue from yesterday have evaporated, and I am back to marveling at the fact that this is my life: walking, swimming, ice cream, Etienne. Tomorrow we’ll hit the actual halfway point, and today, I’m thankful that we still have 1100 miles to go. I could live on the Appalachian Trail forever.

We shower off the hiker sweat and pool chlorine, lounge around in the sun to dry, and then hike up to Quarry Gap Shelters, which are new and beautifully maintained. The two wooden shelters are decorated with flower boxes and a garden. But somehow, we still have over an hour before sunset, so we hike on to a stealth site listed on Guthook. It’s dusk when we arrive. We hiked nearly 22 miles, including a long break at the pool, and I never felt rushed.

See? I tell myself. I’m fine.